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| Oxford Street | |
| 5921 Sunrise Mall Citrus Heights , California 95610 | |
| Details: The History of Men's Suits Tailoring, the cutting and sewing of cloth as we understand it today, developed gradually in Europe between the twelfth and fourteenth centuries. The first specific reference to the word "Tailor" in the Oxford English Dictionary provides a date at around the end of the thirteenth century. At one point the cloth was the important feature of any garment. Following the Renaissance the primary function of clothing to conceal the body shifted to a position whereby clothing was used to accentuate certain physical features. Following this transition the Tailor grew in importance with masters of the craft appearing at hubs of civilization. The empires of Italy, then Spain and France were all at one point as a result of their empires the centre of fashionable dress. Italy reached its peak during and after the Renaissance, Spain and France followed early and late 17th century respectively. France during the reign of Louis XIV France was the hub of Tailoring fashion by the time he died in 1715 the balance of fashion power begun to shift across the channel to the UK. During King Louis XIV's 72 year reign a paradigm shift in male attire was becoming apparent. Around 1650 men had stopped wearing the doublet, hose, and cloak, fundamentals of a mans wardrobe since early in the sixteenth century. During Louis XIV reign men started to wear coats, vests, and breeches which we can recognise three components of modern male attire. As noted the balance of fashion power was shifting, following the civil war the English moved away from the decorative court style popularised in France and took up a more practical form. Both the clothing of the gentry and the merchant classes became progressively more sober throughout the eighteenth century. By the start of the 1800's kings, consorts, and princes were dressing in a restrained manner identical to their subjects, this would evolve into the classic attire associated with the ninteenth century such as stovepipe hats, umbrellas, and frock coats. At this point in the evolution of clothing English Tailors, particularly those in London, dominated the male fashion scene. The male style was a clever combination the sporting attire preferred by the gentry and the business clothing of the newly rich industrialists. The fit now rather than decoration became the fundamental rule for male clothing. English Tailors experts at their craft and trained to use woolen cloth over time developed the art of "molding" cloth close to the body without duplicating the exact body form of the wearer. The keywords for the gentlemen of the nineteenth century were discretion, simplicity, and the perfection of cut. It was at this point that modern Tailoring as we know it had it arrived. Innovations such as sewing machines and more comfortable cloths have had their impact but do not detract from the essential consideration that Tailoring is an art form. The tuxedo is undoubtedly the pinnacle of male formal attire. Sometimes disparagingly called the penguin suit, those with anything approaching contempt for this wonderful creation should think again. As a result of the tuxedo, a gentleman attending a formal gathering never has to put an ounce of thought into what he will wear. The tuxedo is one of many reasons why it is great to be a man. In the last quarter of the nineteenth century there lived in New York the Lorillard family. They were an extremely wealthy family having earned their fortune selling tobacco. The family residence at Tuxedo Park was just outside the city of New York. One cold October night in 1886 a formal party at the Lorillard homestead was to set the world of fashion alight and determine a style of formal dress for men that has survived to this day. The inventor was Pierre Lorillard IV, a rich young buck with time on his hands and obviously some design flair. Attired in a tailless black jacket he wowed the guests and soon suave, fashionable urbanites were falling over themselves to get the latest look. This simple, elegant and crucial element of any mans wardrobe took its name from the Lorillard family residence. The tuxedo as we have established is the ultimate in formalwear for men - it is timeless. Like everything else, there are times when it is probably inappropriate to wear a tuxedo, a camping holiday immediately springs to mind. There are of course situations when the tuxedo is essential. If for example your invitation states formal, black tie, black tie invited or any other similar combination of words you can be sure that any appearance in those old slacks you use when you are washing the car will not be well regarded. Similarly if you are well heeled, well connected and cultured enough to be attending the opening of the opera, ballet or symphony the tuxedo is a must. Formal dinner parties, dances and formal restaurants also require the donning of the svelte black garment. If you happen to be attending the Oscars or any other awards ceremony and hope to spend a few pleasant hours with the nominee for best supporting actress the old tux is again a must. It is a matter of personal choice but it is definitely best to buy a tuxedo rather than renting one. Better still is to have one Tailored, a well fitting tuxedo will make you look like the proverbial million dollars. Unless you want to look an idiot keep it simple and traditional don't for example get it into your head that matching yellow socks and cummerbund are going to be in any way nice, always wear black. The cummerbund by the way is the bit that goes around your waist and should always be made of the same fabric as the jacket with the pleats faced upwards. The bow tie is essential a clip on bow tie on a grown man is dreadful buy one and if you are don't have someone to dress you get the sales person to pass on the skill. A single button tuxedo is the most flattering and elegant look. Double-breasted styles look well on trimmer men while the more robust gentlemen out there would do well to ensure their tuxedo jacket has a shawl collar. Other style depending on your taste and build include notched collar and three-button tuxedos. |
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| Last Tour Update: May 18, 2012 |
