May 21, 2012
Margo Powers Tour Details

Margo
Powers
Margo Powers
 

The Terrace

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916-486-1904

 
   
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The Terrace
2673 el paseo ln sacramento, California 95821
Details:
It is the nature of human beings to want what they can't have.
Take breakfast, for example. How often have you been struck with
a red-hot desire for eggs Benedict or buckwheat pancakes at 2 in
the afternoon? Or, inversely, craved a Reuben sandwich at 8:30
a.m.? You probably don't want to make these dishes yourself, but
most restaurants aren't interested in catering to renegade
diners.

Yet even renegades need a little love now and then, and they'll
find it in spades at The Terrace restaurant in the Town & County
Village shopping center. Generously accepting of the fickleness
of the human appetite, owners Margo and Michael Powers offer an
extensive breakfast and lunch menu all day, from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
That means you can plow through a hunk of blackened salmon or a
plate of thinly sliced carpaccio as soon as you leap out of bed
in the morning. Breakfast in the late afternoon sounded better to
me, and I can say with certainty that The Terrace's fluffy
blueberry pancakes (with eggs and bacon, of course) tasted
fabulous' and, yes, slightly naughty' the day I devoured them at
2:30 p.m.

Regardless of your meal selection, you'll enjoy The Terrace's
peaceful, gracious dining area. The walls are painted a calming,
light moss green, and the burnt-orange floors are mottled and
glossy. Jaunty sprigs of mint in tiny vases adorn white
linen-draped tables, and delicate pendant light fixtures dangle
prettily from the ceiling. Large windows overlook a charming
little patio with a fountain. Modern art adorns the walls and
lazy jazz softens the ambiance, inviting you to stretch out your
legs and order a glass of wine (or orange juice, as the case may
be).

The restaurant has a very ambitious menu, considering it offers
two meals simultaneously. Breakfast fare includes omelets,
frittatas (such as the gorgeous crimini mushroom and spinach
frittata), sourdough French toast and pancakes. The eggs
Benedict, which appear on the Sunday brunch menu, are stellar,
swathed in a sassy, smooth hollandaise. If you have a trucker's
appetite, order the buttery housemade biscuits drenched in
Italian sausage-flecked gravy or the eggs, any style, served over
a pan-seared New York steak.

Lunch entries range from goat-cheese-stuffed portobello mushrooms
and sesame-crusted ahi tuna to linguine with tiger prawns. The
sturdy meatloaf is a great choice if you're famished: Plopped in
a brightly flavored pool of tomato sauce, the slabs of tender
meat are accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes. The jambalaya
(prepared, interestingly, with basmati rice) is the shining star
of the menu. Freckled with tiny chunks of chicken, slices of
spicy andouille sausage and fat prawns, it was a rustic jumble of
goodness. Not nearly as successful was an herb-rubbed New York
steak sandwich, smothered with softly sauteed mushrooms and
caramelized onions. While the flavors were right on, the meat was
extraordinarily gristly and tough, making the dish virtually
inedible.

Sandwiches include barbecue pulled pork, piled on focaccia bread
with caramelized apples and grilled red onions, and a saltily
appealing (and jaw-stretching) club sandwich. The Sac Valley baby
greens salad was tossed in a bacon-sage dressing and sprinkled
with goat cheese, green apple slices and dried cranberries. The
Cobb salad, another good choice, was quite handsome and hearty,
and while I don't think I could eat it for breakfast, I'd
certainly order it again for lunch.

The major snafu I encountered at The Terrace was consistently
uneven service. Waiters, though pleasant and welcoming, were slow
to take our orders and never checked back during the meal to see
how things were going. Our waters were not refilled, and the
general lack of attentiveness was irksome. Dishes often came out
piece by piece, and one afternoon a dining companion's meal
arrived a full 10 minutes after everyone else's.

While it may take some patience to dine at The Terrace, its
convenient location and whimsy-indulging menu make it a pretty
compelling dining destination. Where else can you order a pile of
fried calamari and a sirloin burger with fries at 8 in the
morning?
Last Tour Update: May 15, 2012
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